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NEW Rebound™ 25 is an easy-to-use platinum-cure silicone rubber that self-thickens for making brush-on molds of almost any model. Mixed 1A:1B by volume (no scale necessary), Rebound™ 25 can be applied with a brush or spatula to vertical surfaces without sagging and will cure with negligible shrinkage to a soft, flexible rubber (Shore 25A) that is incredibly strong.

Advantages Over Urethane Brush-On Rubber:
(a) Rebound™ 25 will not stick to most surfaces, so surface preparation is minimal, (b) Two liquids that mix easily together, (c) Rebound™ 25 sticks to itself readily, even when cured, meaning that you can add more material at any time.

Three to four layers is all that is necessary to make a strong, durable production mold for casting wax, gypsum, concrete or resins (urethane, polyester, etc.).

And because Rebound™ 25 is a platinum silicone, it will last for many years in your mold library. Applications include reproducing sculpture, architectural restoration, making candle molds, etc.

Making a Rebound™ 25 Brush-On Mold

New Rebound 25™ Silicone Rubber will be used to make a mold of this wooden Indian model. Because Rebound 25 is a silicone rubber, no sealer or release agent is needed.		Four layers will be applied to this model. The first layer is called the “detail coat”, and is applied thinly so that the rubber can “de-air” itself, resulting in no bubbles in the cured mold.

After one hour, another batch of Rebound is mixed, this time we added Silc Pig™ green silicone pigment. Changing the color of every other layer helps attain thorough coverage and avoid missed areas resulting in thin spots.		After one hour the rubber is tacky enough to mix and apply the third layer. Option: You can accelerate the tack time between layers by applying heat to the rubber surface with a heat gun or hair dryer.

The fourth and final layer is mixed and applied. Again, green pigment is added to ensure thorough coverage. All layers are allowed to cure 6 hours before applying the mother mold (also known as the support shell).		A “shim” made of clay is applied to the model to separate the support shell halves. The clay shim is fortified from behind by clay anchor points to prevent shifting while Plasti-Paste support shell plastic is applied.

The Plasti-Paste™ is mixed and applied by troweling or brushing the material over the first half of the model. For handling strength, be sure to build up the shell to a thickness of 3/8” - 1/2” in all areas.		The Plasti-Paste color lightens as it cures. The first half of the shell fully hardens in about 90 minutes. Once cured, the clay shim is removed, exposing the first half of the cured plastic shell.

Aluminum foil is then used to cover any part of the cured Plasti-Paste that might touch fresh Plasti-Paste. Purpose: To prevent the second half of the plastic shell from adhering to the first half and ensure separation of the two halves.		Plasti-Paste™ is applied to the mold’s other half to complete the support shell. Wetting a gloved hand repeatedly with alcohol allows you to smooth rough areas. The second half of the plastic shell is allowed to cure for 90 minutes.

A large screwdriver is used to pry the two halves of the support shell apart. The aluminum foil prevented the Plasti-Paste from sticking to itself, allowing for easy of separation.		The support shell will provide support to the flexible mold during casting. The next step is to demold the model

Because Rebound 25 is so strong and stretchy, it can be removed like a glove from the model. Cutting the rubber was not necessary in this case. Opposite: The inverted mold reflects all of the detail captured from the original model.	The next step is to produce a wood-like casting from the mold using Smooth-Cast 320 liquid plastic, Ure-Fil™ 5 filler, So-Strong™ brown pigment and some brown shoe polish. The goal is to reproduce the wood grain of the original.

Casting Into the Mold

The next step is to produce a wood-like casting from the mold using Smooth-Cast 320 liquid plastic, Ure-Fil™ 5 filler, So-Strong™ brown pigment and some brown shoe polish. The goal is to reproduce the wood grain of the original.	SC 320 Part B is poured into a mixing container, followed by an equal amount of Ure-Fil 5 filler. The filler is pre-mixed thoroughly with Part B before adding Part A.

So-Strong™ Brown Tint is also added to the pre-mix. Everything is mixed thoroughly until a dark brown, uniform consistency is attained.		Part A of the Smooth-Cast 320 is then added. After thorough mixing (you have 3 minutes!) the liquid is cast into the mold which was placed in a 5 gallon bucket for support. The casting will be ready to demold in 15 minutes.

The casting is then demolded. Brown shoe polish or wood stain is then applied to bring out the wood grain texture. The stained casting is then coated with a clear acrylic spray to seal the wax and preserve the finish.		The finished casting on the left appears to be made of wood. You can’t tell it’s plastic!

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